Adding a free form leaf design

In the large black area, I continued to loom below the Gerber Daisy head, I will add a 'free form' symbolic leaf. This leaf will hold the fringes I am adding. But first, let me share how I added this design aspect.


In the picture above, you can see how I first strung 11/0 Japanese Seed beads on to a line of 12 lb Wildfire thread, in green. The strung section was roughly attached to my looming using the bead stops.

A new piece of thread, 10 lb green Wildfire, was threaded and followed inside the same pre-strung beads to attach the entire leaf section. A bead was added, during my second pass with the 10 lb Wildfire, to make the turn or a point of the leaf.


The thickness of the two threads helped to keep the green bead
shaped into the leaf design.

Below you can see I am also adding more 11/0 seed beads to create a double line, which will also be holding the fringes I'll add. Fringes are usually hung from the very edge, but this time, I am planning to start the fringes in the center of the looming. These beads will be that starting point.


Notice in both pictures, up and below, how I am using the 'warp' threads to secure all of my 3D accents. This is not only more secure, but I will not break any beads, should I need to make many passes to complete. When finished, you won't see any threads on the back of the loomed cuff base.


This is as far as I will add an accent. The fringes will be spaced wide apart, when attached, so you will still be able to see the Tex 400 cords used for warping.

Usually, I bead edge every cuff, but this time, I am only going to bead edge one side of this cuff. The edge, where the leaf design extends, will not be edged with beads. The C-Lon Tex 400 Cord, warped on that outer edge, is sufficient to create a finished edge. If I were adding a bead edge, I would have added it before I created the symbolic leaf design.