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Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Attaching A New Weft

It is faster and easier to use the length of weft, which is the most comfortable for you to use, during any particular size looming. The more 'beads wide', the more times you will need to attach a new weft thread, because the rows are longer and use up the thread faster. I prefer to swap out my weft thread in a way that I do not have so many 'tails' of weft thread hanging around my looming. Let me share with you how I swap out my weft thread.

After tying off and cutting the short weft thread, just completing some final rows, I thread my needle on to the tail of the new thread spool, 'just thread the needle directly to the new thread spool'. Run this threaded needed into the first bead on the last row, or the same bead you exited when you finished up the row prior, still with the spool attached to the other end.

Follow through the entire last row of beads, exiting out the outside right bead, still leaving the spool attached to the new running thread, and entering the first bead in this row. Tie a double hitch knot on the outside warp, in between the two end beads of the last two rows.

After tying a tight knot, run the needle and small tail of weft thread, into the 'last bead of the second-to-the-last' row of beads. This will also pull the knot 'center' of the last two rows.

If your looming is wide, then exit the needle halfway through the row. If the looming is more narrow, then run the needle completely across the row, existing out the fist bead on the second row up, (the same row you just entered). Pull taught, then cut the new weft thread, close to the bead it was exiting.

Now you can move back to the 'spool of new weft thread'. Pull out as much thread as you feel comfortable using on your needle. Some like to use a thread just long enough for one complete arm length and others like to include extra so the new weft thread lasts longer (I prefer the extra weft thread, myself!). Cut the new length of weft thread from the spool, thread your needle and begin looming again. There are no tails to get in your way and no tails to clean up later. Also, the knot is situated in between rows, which will allow me to insert the needle, comfortably, later when I am edging or completing my finishing method.


  1. Hi Erin thankyou again for your intuative knowledge with wefting threads
    Im always working on really wide pieces alot my my pieces are minimum of like 150 warp threads sometimes wider
    whats your advise so your saying that changing colors of your weft thread is important?

  2. Hi Robin! I change the colors of my warp thread to match the prominent color of my looming. If I am looming white's with dark colors, then I will warp with 'white' and 'paint black ink' on the warps that fall 'under my black sections of the looming. In this case, my picture above, I am using 'black warps'.

    The other thing to consider is what beads you will be looming. I am using 'opaques', in the picture above, so I can use black weft thread too. But if you are using translucent, silver lined, or any other sheer finish Delicas, decide to use a 'white weft', even though you are using 'black warps'. Here on my Blog, I explain how the 'Weft Thread is the Color Boss'. Go take a look.

    In reference to this post about 'changing up the weft threads', I was talking with Lidia, above, who explained a new and different way, she read about, in a book. That method may be perfect for what you loom, 150 beads wide! It is called the two needle method. Lidia explained it to me this way, "I start the beading either in the center or at one end - depending on the loom I'm using. The first row will have three passes of thread. and there will be a needle and a weft thread on both the left and the right sides of the l...oom. The left hand side needle picks up the beads and that thread will always be under the warps. The right hand side needle passes through the beads above the warps and then becomes the left one. I can go twice as far with each change of weft. I also find that this method produces identical selvages on each edge. This method was taught by Takako Sako and she uses it mainly for purses. The last 15 cuffs I've loomed have been done this way. For some inexplicable reason I find it faster and I seem less likely to miss/drop warps. I can't stand missed warps. ;) and I fix every one I find." I find this very interesting and would surely save time in changing up the wefts often! You may already use this method, if not, I'd love to hear your thoughts about it!

  3. It is wonderful you knew to look here! Thanks Caron! Can't wait to see a picture of your first looming!