I have completed my base pattern, for this cuff, which includes my personal technique of a 'wavy loomed edge'. The Mirrix did an outstanding job and is designed perfectly for this method of beading.
No finagling with the weighted warps, as I have with other set ups trying to complete this same method of looming. Depending on the pattern, each of the weighted warps move up in various lengths. This is where the suggestion of a 'bobbin' comes into serious thought. However, I did 'swap out' the outer right two weighted warps, when my right indent was the furthest inward. Notice where the bobbins lay now, opposed to an earlier picture, below, when I started.
I'll be including finer details of the finishing process, in my book, but I do want to share one detail that may make your looming better if you know ahead of time and would like to try this method out now. The outer weighted warp is shorter because that warp has a tendency to be 'pulled inside' of the end bead. The picture below shows how the warp is 'inside' the end bead, when my needle has it's final 'pull', securing a row.
So if any of the warps are in need of a bobbin, it would have to be the 'outer right warp', for any pattern. Don't pull the warp so far into the bead, or your looming will 'ruffle' along this edge. Logically, with movement of your loomed piece, while wearing, the threads loosen up. Therefore, having too much 'warp inside', it will work its way out eventually. I offer a finishing technique that finalizes this 'weighted warp method', and limits the amount of 'slack' caused by the outside warp. This step can be completed 'with' or 'without' adding a 'bead edging'.
The base pattern is complete! Here is a picture of the cuff, titled "Ruppunzel"! (This was originally just a braid of rattan, but my friend Ness, from across the pond, mentioned she can't help but think of this story, when she sees it! Thanks Ness! It's a perfect name!
Not much more till this cuff can be worn, but these details will be offered later. I always suggest knowing your exact ending, before you start. This is important for mapping out your pattern, as well as how many rows you need to loom. I have offered a little insight into 'mapping out your cuff size', in an earlier post. But again, you should start to get a feel for the 'number of loomed rows' vs. 'measurement when cut from the loom'. I'll also start to get into how to consider the clasp attachment and the different styles to consider, at a later time.
There is one other technique I would like to work on this Mirrix Loom, I think it will work beautifully. I also want to complete a Split Loomed Necklace, with some of my usual looming techniques used in all of my work, as well as looming another cuff with a theme seen often, but not in the manner I hope to pose! Again, I'll be sharing thoughts along the way!